CoLAB Sous-Marine

Step 4: Prototype reveal

CoLAB – Airain Sous-Marine

Help us shape Airain’s next flagship

We have collected your wonderful input, votes on all the different aspects that define this watch, and have discussed the results with our Swiss manufacturers. Now it’s time for Step 4 of our CoLAB design effort: presenting the prototypes to you!

You already saw a glimpse of our Sous-Marine’s character in the 3D-renditions from Step 3, yet nothing beats having a real watch in your hands. Its straight-forward looks and clear dial and hands lend this watch the level of quality time-reading you need under water. We are delighted to share the first images with you. Let’s dive right in and have a look.

Project status

Design

Techn. dev.

Pre-order Round 1

Prototyping

Pre-order Round 2

In production

Shipping

Presenting the Prototypes: New Airain Flagship Casts Off!

From 18kt gold hands to a modern version of the Parmentier crown. Everything adds up.

We must admit, the last few months were tense. Of course, we’d tried our best to make the 3D renders of the Sous-Marine’s previous CoLAB step as realistic as possible. But you can’t beat watching the light bounce of a real bezel.

How would the 18-karat gold-plated hands work in combination with the black dial and steel case? Would the case, so closely matching its original, have the intended feel of luxury? And would the new Parmentier Crown deliver on its promise?

As recently as last January, we sat down with our technicians in Switzerland to try to improve the watch’s profile. We were worried that the dial would sit too deeply below the bezel. We’ve managed to bring its thickness down from 13.17 mm (including the sapphire glass) to 12.77 mm.

The results are beautiful! It’s with great pride we now present to you the new Airain skin diver; the Sous-Marine Re-Edition!

Prototype evaluation: the outcome

Prototyping is essential in watch production. Computer animations and 3D renders will give a fair understanding of the watch’s dynamics, but it’s only with prototypes in hand and looking at them from all angles that we can truly value and assess the final results.

Based on the prototypes, we have made the following last-minute tweaks to the design:

  • The font shape of the six on the dial does not yet align with our intentions, so we are currently discussing this with our supplier.
  • The bezel should be better aligned. It should be straight with the indexes when put towards the stop position.
  • The engraving on the bezel should be less deep to better reflect the original. We are changing the engraving depth from 0.25 mm to 0.10 mm.
  • The Parmentier Crown cap’s indentations are too deep. This loosens the crown cap’s grip on the crown somewhat. Even though the Re-Edition is self-wound, we want to stay true to the original. So it is still important for us that it works as intended.
  • The minute hand is too long. We will shorten it by 0.5 mm.
  • The roulette date wheels (alternating red and black numerals) were not yet finished in the prototypes. The ones shown are standard date wheels.
  • The Fixoflex bracelet shown here was an early pre-production sample. We are currently perfecting the bracelet’s position and end piece.

Our Protos Photos

A closer look

Ref 524.437A and 524.437B

Glossy black dial, light old radium lume, 18K gold plated hands, DNA strand seconds hand (B) or French lollipop seconds hand (A). On a Tropical Black FKM Rubber strap and a Fixoflex bracelet.

Ref 524.481 and 524.422

Ocean green dial with light old radium lume and silver polished hands on a Tropical Green FKM Rubber strap and a Fixoflex bracelet (524.481) and deep blue dial with BGW9 lume and white painted hands on a Tropical Blue FKM Rubber strap and a Fixoflex bracelet (524.422).

Ref 524.407 and 524.457

Faded black dial with C3 lume and silver polished hands on a Tropical Black FKM Rubber strap and a Fixoflex bracelet (524.407) and tropical dial with light old radium lume and bronze colored hands on a Tropical Black FKM Rubber strap and a Fixoflex bracelet (524.457).

Other details

Lume shots and close-ups of the case back.

Pre-order Round 2

Select your favourite down below

After careful prototype testing and teasing of close-up photos, it’s time to open a new round of pre-orders for our latest release, the Airain Sous-Marine! The origin story of this skin diver dates back to the 1960s: the golden age of dive watches. In the 20s of a new century, another chapter is added to the Sous-Marine’s history book. You can get your hands on this revived classic for a special pre-order price now 👇:

BONUS: Collect CDMLEC Rewards with your purchase
Pre-ordering your Sous-Marine now comes with an added benefit. We’re rolling out a new loyalty programme to reward future AND past buyers of Airain products (+ CDMLEC’s other brand, Lebois & Co).

Through this programme, you automatically build up points for every purchase at one of CDMLEC’s brands. You can check out the first details on our dedicated Rewards page, which we’ll expand soon. For now, the most important thing to note is that loyal fans will enjoy more benefits in the future!

Airain Sous-Marine Re-Edition

A skin diver developed to modern standards, yet true to the original in nearly every detail. Available with lollipop or DNA strand seconds hand.

Sous-Marine
Re-Edition
Ref 524.437A
with glossy black dial, light old radium lume, 18K gold plated hands and lollipop seconds hand on a Tropical Black FKM Rubber strap and a Fixoflex bracelet

 1750

Sous-Marine
Re-Edition
Ref 524.437B
with glossy black dial, light old radium lume, 18K gold plated hands and DNA strand seconds hand on a Tropical Black FKM Rubber strap and a Fixoflex bracelet

 1750

Airain Sous-Marine Limited Series

An exclusive run of the Airain Sous-Marine. Very similar but still different (look closely if you can find all the differences). For this occasion we exclusively used the Airain crown logo on these models.

Sous-Marine
Deep Blue
Ref 524.422
Deep blue dial with BGW9 lume and white painted hands on a Tropical Blue FKM Rubber strap and a Fixoflex bracelet

 1750

Sous-Marine
Faded Black
Ref 524.407
Faded black dial with C3 lume and silver polished hands on a Tropical Black FKM Rubber strap and a Fixoflex bracelet

 1750

Sous-Marine
Ocean Green
Ref 524.481
Ocean green dial with light old radium lume and silver polished hands on a Tropical Green FKM Rubber strap and a Fixoflex bracelet

 1750

Sous-Marine
Tropical
Ref 524.457
Tropical dial with light old radium lume and bronze colored hands on a Tropical Black FKM Rubber strap and a Fixoflex bracelet

 1750

Displayed prices include DDP (Delivery Duty Paid) for all countries in the European Union, the United Kingdom, Switzerland and the USA meaning that shipping as well as customs duties and VAT for these countries are included. For all other countries, prices include DAP (Delivered at Place) meaning that only shipping is included and customs duties and VAT are not included.

Full Specs

Airain Sous-Marine Re-Edition
Swiss-Made modern reissue of Airain’s 1960s dive watch. It includes a unique and historically accurate ‘Parmentier crown’, providing water resistance to a depth of 200 metres, a unidirectional rotating diver’s bezel with 120 clicks and 60-minute scale.

Case
316L stainless steel case
Diameter: 37.5 mm (case) / 38.2 mm (bezel)
Height: 10.45 mm
Crystal: 2.92 mm domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating inside
Lug-to-lug: 48.2 mm
Stainless steel case back, screwed down, engraved
Bezel: unidirectional (counterclockwise) rotating with white engraving and Super Luminova dot at 12 o’clock, full black PVD coated
Water resistance: 200 m (20 ATM)

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date

Strap
Lug width: 20mm
Strap: quick-release Tropic-style FKM rubber strap
Buckle type: pin buckle
Size: 18mm

Bracelet
Fixoflex® expandable watch band
Stainless steel
Finishing: vertically brushed
Width: 20mm
Easily removable links

Movement
AM5 automatic calibre
Diameter: 25.6mm
Height: 4.45mm
Frequency: 4 Hz / 28,800 vibrations/hour
Twenty-four (24) jewels
68 hours power reserve
Hacking seconds
Tungsten rotor
Finishing: Geneva stripes (Côtes de Genève), blue polished screws and gold coloured engravings
Datewheel: roulette (alternating red and black numerals)
Adjusted to 4 positions (CH, FH, 3H, 6H, 9H)

Warranty
2 years international warranty

Flagships need strong engines
The Swiss-Made AM5 self-winding mechanical movement is based on Manufacture La Joux-Perret’s G100 and boasts an impressive 68 hours of power reserve. Its solid tungsten rotor ensures a smooth rotation and weight distribution while its accuracy is regulated to no less than 4 positions. It is finished in ‘Soigné’ with blue screws.

Move the slider to reveal what’s behind the Sous-Marine’s case back.

* = The final finishing of the movement may differ slightly from the picture shown.

What’s next?

  • Now: A final evaluation of the prototypes
    We’re currently finalizing all changes we want to implement towards final production.
  • Early July: Pre-order Round 2
    When everything checks out, we’ll update this page and start Pre-Order Round 2 early July. Our Newsletter subscribers will be notified first. If you would like to own a Sous-Marine, be sure to register for one or more models. And don’t forget to keep an eye on this page anyhow!

    Please note: availability of individual references of the limited series is based on their popularity in Pre-Order Round 1.

  • Then: Production
    In the second half of July, our Swiss manufacturers will start producing your Sous-Marine of choice. The movements will be ready in October 2023, after which watch assembly can start. We expect to start shipping by the end of November 2023. As soon as we have an idea of the exact delivery date, we will give you a heads-up by email.

Project Timeline

 

29 March, 2022 Step 1: Design foundations
13 May 2022 Step 2: Revealing the design
10 December 2022 Step 3: Presenting the results in 3D and technical details
16 December 2022 Pre-order Round 1 (pre-prototype)
26 June 2023 Step 4: Prototype evaluation
10 July 2023 Launch of Pre-order Round 2
July 2023 Start of final production
2 October 2023 Movements ready, start of assembly
November 2023 Start delivery

The above timeline is an estimate and can be adjusted if necessary.

Virtual Coffee Catch-up

Talking watches and project progress: register for our virtual coffee meetings

Don't forget to brew your own cup of coffee beforehand 😉

In the Media

Check what the media are saying about our project

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  • Avatar JFPisa says:

    I see in the pre-order pictures that the date wheel is red while in the prototype pictures the date wheel is black. Which will we see in the final production?

    • Tom @ CDMLEC Tom @ CDMLEC says:

      Hi JFPisa,

      You are totally right. The roulette date wheels (alternating red and black numerals) were not yet finished in the prototypes. The ones shown are standard date wheels. The final production pieces will indeed have the alternating red/black date wheel.

      Cheers,
      Tom

  • Avatar MICHAEL LAMBERTI says:

    Love the new watch just wish you would make a larger size for men with large wrists. Also how about a photo with the watch on a mans wrist. Thanks.

    • Tom @ CDMLEC Tom @ CDMLEC says:

      Hi Michael! Thanks, great you like it!

      While I understand you comment about the size because of the diameter of the watch (38.2 mm), I think it is important to note that the lug to lug size is quite large at 48.2 mm. So the watch may not be very wide but it is long. Both Fratellowatches and Monochrome Watches made some great wristshots you can check out on their blog articles.

  • Tom @ CDMLEC Tom @ CDMLEC says:

    Hi fellow watch enthusiasts, team Airain is here to answer your questions and comments. You are welcome to join the discussion!

    • Avatar Dean says:

      Hello, For production models the WR rating is 200m for Airain Sous-Marine?

      The update video indicates 50m. The spec. sheet on the web page states 200m. Thank you

      • Tom @ CDMLEC Tom @ CDMLEC says:

        Hi Dean,

        The Sous-Marine is indeed 200m with the Parmentier crown cap on. Without the crown cap it is 50m (instead of the earlier advertised 30m).

        I hope this clarifies your question.

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